Ping Pong Dim Sum

Location: Chinatown

Price: $$$

Rating: 3 out of 5

Summary: An average meal enhanced by a great deal

While we have little experience in dim sum cuisine, we enjoy small plate dinners and classic chinese dishes as much as the next person, After hearing about Ping Pong Dim Sum’s brunch special of all you could eat dim sum (costing $25) and seasonal mimosas of guava, lychee & mango (and additional $15), we had to make the trip and make our money’s worth. While we had heard about Ping Pong’s exquisite happy hour deals and their dependable dim sum service, we had never actually had the chance to eat at Ping Pong. The excuse of unlimited dim sum and bottomless mimosas sold us on the task of making a reservation.

Our first round of orders included the Crispy potato cake, fluffy potato with soy beans pancaked with a crisp coating. Tasting like a chinese twice baked potato, the consistency of pureed potato was more mush than mashed. It wasn’t a bad potato cake, but there are better options on the menu. The spicy basil dumpling is a similar story, filled with basil, chili and rice noodles in a riddled wheat flour pastry with vinegar dipping sauce. Spicy and fresh, the rice noodles were a nice touch to the dumpling, but be prepared for a mouth full of steamed basil.

Next was the cleverly named Chicken puff is a puff pastry filled with tender chicken breast, flavored with soy sauce, spring onion, and topped with pineapple. The sweetness of the pineapple paired nicely with the caramelized onions, the minced chicken soaking up the sweetness and the soy sauce. The Chili pork tenderloins, small pork fillets rubbed with chili marinade, were a tad over chewy, but the flavor was spot on, the charred skin and chili sesame sauce coating brighting up the pork’s savoriness.

The Char sui bun was one of the first in our next marathon of dim sum courses, honey-roasted barbecued pork in a wheat flour bun, was by far one of our favorites of the meal. The thick, but delicate texture of the bun holds within a bundle of sweet and shredded BBQ pork. A simple dish, but still a great choice. Another favorite was the Spicy pork dumpling, minced chilies and pork stuffed and steamed in a translucent pastry. A final dim sum not to miss is the Vietnamese shrimp spring roll, shrimp, rice noodles, vegetables wrapped in a rice paper and served with fish sauce, lettuce, and mint. While the wrapper was not the normal translucent skin, the crackle of the rice paper popped on our tongue without sacrificing the light and crisp taste of the filling.

Our first choice of dessert dim sum was the Crispy banana roll with a sichuan chocolate sauce, grilled banana slices rolled up in a thin, wafer-like wrapper. The accompanying semi-sweet sauce of hazelnut and chocolate paired perfectly with the banana roll, the custard-like sauce mellowing out the extremes of the sweetness while preserving the integrity of the crispy banana roll. We also indulged in the Baked ginger cake, drizzled with caramel and served with a scoop of cinnamon ice cream. Although both the cake and ice cream are best enjoyed at the same time, both have a heavy-handed favor and weight. Our final dessert choice was the Roasted coconut and pineapple spring roll served with butterscotch sauce. With flavors similar to a pineapple upside down cake, the butterscotch sauce did wonders to brighten the pineapple and make this dish our favorite dessert.

While we certainly got our money’s worth, we have to reflect on whether we would have actually visited Ping Pong Dim Sum under normal circumstances. Although some of the dishes shone out as great choices, most were average or little more than after thoughts. There was nothing that impressed us or showed us something that we didn’t expect. The brunch deal is worth the trip if you’re looking for something new to try on a weekend or need a place to eat with a large group, but we don’t really see ourselves convincing people to go out of their way for Ping Pong Dim Sum for the food alone.

Ping Pong Dim Sum on Urbanspoon

Top Chef Cooking Class at Asia Nine

As soon as the finale of Bravo’s Top Chef Season 9 aired, we received an email notice from Asia Nine, a Penn Quarter restaurant that we’ve visited many times before for both dinner and happy hour. They were announcing an Asian fusion cooking class with none other than Chef Paul Qui, Executive Chef of Uchiko in Austin TX and the most recent contestant to receive the title “Top Chef”. Along with Paul was Chef Edward Lee, Executive Chef of 610 Magnolia in Louisville KY and fellow contestant on the show (as well as our personal favorite on the season). Asia Nine explained to us that they chose to host this particular event as Asian cuisine, fusion and authentic, have been a rising food trend this year and have been following the careers of both chefs for a while. Before the cooking class began, we were able to talk with chefs Paul Qui and Edward Lee for a few minutes.

We posed that the culture for many young chefs seems to be moving around to different restaurants every few years or less to gain as much experience under as many executive chefs as possible. Our question was whether it was better to pull inspiration from as many restaurants as possible or to find one restaurant that fit a young chef’s style and develop his or her craft there solely. Paul commented that it is important to get different experiences and learn in different kitchens to develop your own craft, but you need to stick with restaurants that fit your style and not just some big named restaurant. Ed added that some people do try to pad their resume by working in so many kitchens or studying under so many famous chefs, but the most critical thing is to find a place that suits you as a chef.

For our next question, we asked if there were any of their competitor’s dishes they saw in their season of Top Chef that they were impressed enough with to put on their own menu. Both of the chefs immediately said “No”, that while everything on the show was great, their menu “is a matter of pride.”

Asked if either of them were fans of the show prior to being chosen for the 9th Season, Ed said that he hadn’t really seen a full season before and usually jumped in half way through. Paul agreed that when the last eight contestants were left would he pick it up, the last seasons he watched were the end of Season 8 All Stars and Season 6 (Las Vegas). When asked if there was a previous season’s challenge he was glad not to have done, Paul couldn’t think of any, but voiced his loathing for the Culinary Olympics (gondola) challenge, however stipulating, “It is what it is. They can do whatever to me. It’s fine.”

When asked how a novice or average person could best start cooking Asian cuisine, Paul cautioned that “Asian cuisine” is such a broad term, styles differing from region to region, and it was best to first find a style that you enjoyed. Ed reminisced on one of the first books he bought as a kid by an old London chef named Kim Hon who wrote “these incredible Chinese cookbooks…still the best cookbooks for Chinese cuisine, which is kind of like the basis of modern Asian cuisine.” As it turns out, the series is unfortunately out of print.

Since on Top Chef a contestant is forced to compete in a wide range of styles and challenges, we wondered if their experiences in the season caused them to afterwards change their styles or menus of their restaurant. Ed said frankly, “I haven’t changed my cuisine because of what happened on Top Chef…Maybe our scope has broadened, but our process for making and producing is that same as it was, a slow and calculated process.” Elaborating on how their own kitchens work, both Paul and Ed added that there are plenty of voices in their kitchen, each sous-chef having a voice and hand in making a dish. “If you have more palates involved,” Paul said, “it’s like a think tank to create a dish.” “Otherwise, it becomes all about your ego,” Ed summarized.

For our final question, we asked if there were any restaurants in the DC area (besides Asia Nine, of course) that either of them preferred or were looking forward to visit while in town. Having grown up in northern Virginia, Paul said that his mom did a lot of gourmet cooking so he never really had a reason to visit that many restaurants in the area. He did add that he just went to Jose Andres’ America Eats Tavern and was a big fan the chef’s Mini Bar. Ed mentioned that he had eaten at Rasika the night before and imagined he would also visit Graffiato by Top Chef alum Michael Isabella.

As the chefs took to the instruction table in front of the then seated crowd of 110 eager onlookers, Ed announced that he would demonstrate how to prepare Quick Fried Squid and Bacon Salad with Ginger-Apple Zest. Cooking first the bacon, crisping the meat and rendering out most of the fat, he removed the bacon and quickly added the squid. Ed cautioned to only use fresh squid (the man-hole was used in this instance) and that many people screw up dishes with squid because they cook it for too long, producing a protein with the texture of a garden hose. The squid was sautéed quickly, the chef adding soy sauce, lemon, and pepper, and then instructing that the once the ingredients are add the squid is pretty much done already. The bacon and squid combination was added to a bowl of watercress before the addition of a spoonful of fresh Tahini (sesame paste) vinaigrette the chef had also prepared. Finally, Ed grated fresh ginger and a Ganny Smith apple on top of the dish, mentioning how this ginger/apple combination was great on almost anything, especially seafood. As we are served Asia Nine’s duplication of the chef’s dish, we had to agree that the apple & ginger gave the dish a fantastic cool, acidic taste. The smooth Tahiti sauce worked seamlessly with the squid, complimenting the seafood taste perfectly. The crumbled bacon gave savory taste of fat and a nice contrasting crunch to the soft texture of the squid.

Next up was Chef Paul’s Green Curry Mussels with Spiced Potato Chips and Basil. As he heated a pan and drops green curry and white miso pastes in vegetable oil, the smell of the curry blooming spread through the restaurant like a thick cloud, causing many in the audience to both cough and laugh. Paul added that some people have tried to have him cook with their family’s own curry and the scent usually much more potent. Garlic, shallots, ginger, and large cuts of lemongrass were added and sweated until they’re translucent. Cleaned mussels were then dropped in, coated in the curry mixture and steamed to open after the addition of some white wine. After they open, Paul mixed in some coconut milk and Kaffir lime leaves and simmered. Finally, mentioning that he liked to finish many of his dishes with some sort of fresh citrus, Paul squeezed fresh lime juice over the pan. The mussels and sauce was transferred to a bowl and garnished with potato chips and basil leaves. Although he prefers to use freshly made chips, Paul mentioned that Lays will substitute if you don’t have the time. The curry flavors we tasted in our dish went fantastically with the mussels, the coconut milk elevating what is usually just a broth to a sauce we eagerly scooped up with leftover mussel shells. After given a moment to soak in the same sauce, the basil leaves added a great herb twist.

While it was not demonstrated on stage, our third course was Asia Nine’s own Spiced braised short ribs, a great cut of beef oven cooked with a Panang curry mixture, lemongrass and stock. With only a small nudge from our knife and fork, the meat effortlessly separated from the bone. The short rib was superb, tender and juicy. While the curry sauce that surrounded the beef as it cooked tastes great in its own right, the heavy-handed flavors seemed to cover up the savoriness of the short rib instead of complimenting it. Although each of the dishes we enjoyed were paired with a wine, we have to applaud Asia Nine  for the California red blend chosen to match up with this final course, the Zinfandel, Syrah, and Merlot ensemble by far the best compliment to a dish in our meal.

As the other guest and we finished up our final course, Paul and Ed both returned to the demonstration table to field some questions from the audience. What has changed for them since the end of Top Chef? Less time in their kitchens and many more photo-ops. What was their worst/most difficult challenge? Setting up a restaurant in 5 hours for Restaurant Wars right after an all night BBQ challenge. Best hangover food? Fried chicken. Both of the chefs were in good spirits and took time for pictures afterwards with many of the fans in the crowd. They were great presenters and the dishes that Asia Nine’s kitchen reproduced were fantastic. The entire event was well executed and made us eager to see what the restaurant had planned for the rest of the year. Being in the presence of such great chefs encouraged us to expand our own cooking repertoire and pay closer attention to genuine culinary leaders like Ed and Paul beyond what we see on TV.

For a look at Asia Nine’s prepared chef profiles and the event’s recipes, check out Asia Nine Top Chef Cooking Class Info.

Café Asia

Location: Downtown

Price: $$$

Rating: 2 out of 5

Summary: A disappointing entrée selection paired with an above-average sushi menu does not make for a winning combination

When walking into Café Asia, we felt like we stumbled into a really boring night club. Large open spaces and an assortment of colored lights shining on the walls, we weren’t sure what impression the interior was trying to leave us with beyond being thankful we didn’t have to pay for a cover to get in the door. The club like atmosphere brought us to expect modern techniques to classic dishes, new interpretations to our favorite sushi rolls and an interesting drink menu.  Instead, what Café Asia ended up serving was a disappointing experience that made us wish we hadn’t ordered beyond our appetizers.

As with most sushi-related restaurants, we wanted to start with a rice wine. The sake menu is not the most extensive, but was better than the average Asian bistro. We decided on the Shirakabegura “The White Label” Tokubetsu Junmai, which describes being a delicate balance between traditional hand-crafted sake and advanced sake brewing technology. It was a cool, clean finish with a banana after taste. It was a good start to the meal and made me eager to get to our first course.

Our first order was the Spider Roll, soft shell crab tempura with tobiko and lettuce wrapped in rice and sea weed. A classic specialty roll found in any sushi dive, we were first disappointed by the minimal five pieces, but the amount of crab tempura jammed into each piece made it well worth the amount. Great seaweed and high quality rice brings the roll together. A California roll also offered great crab while a Cucumber roll showed off the fantastic rice. Most items on the offered sushi list didn’t stand out as especially exceptional or thought provoking, but the quality of the ingredients used did impress.

If only our review stopped here. Unfortunately we ordered sushi only as appetizers, relying on the entrée selection for our main dishes. This turned out to be a poor decision.

Our first entrée was Drunken Noodles, a common flat rice noodle dish made with Thai brown sauce, minced chicken, bean sprouts, peppers and fresh basil.  We would usually say we have never met a drunken noodle dish that we didn’t like. Café Asia turned out to be the exception. The noodles were barely tossed in the sauce, providing for an overly bland and almost rubbery rice noodle. The minced chicken was a different interpretation on the usually sliced chicken we would normally find with this dish. We sincerely hope to never find the chicken minced again, both the size and the preparation of the meat left almost no flavor for the diner.

The second entrée is Nasi Uduk, an Indonesian style coconut rice platter with spicy beef, crispy anchovies, pickled veggies, emping (acorn chips), chicken satay, gado-gado and spicy prawn sauce. With a lot on the plate, we had hoped to sample as much as we could of Café Asia’s culinary style and traditional-inspired cuisine. Yet, it turns out we should have focused on quality over quantity. The peanut sauce that covered most of the pieces of meat on the plate was a surprisingly bland for the large amount of finely chopped peanuts swimming in the mixture; this left a very uncomfortable consistency in the mouth. The chicken and beef by themselves were not terribly cooked, but the overbearing sauce made any real flavor fall flat. The combination of emping and gado-gado was a lot like straw and beans on chips, making me sincerely reconsider the idea of ever having Indonesian cuisine again. The pickled vegetables were a nice addition to the plate, if only for the vinegar dressing neutralizing the haunting taste of the emping and gado-gado. Half way through this poorly imagined assortment of woe, we did consider ordering a new entrée all together, but decided to just stick it out and quickly ask for the check.

While we have never advised anyone to visit a restaurant and avoid their entrée list, Café Asia is an unfortunate example. We enjoyed our selections from the specialty and regular roll menu, but were disappointed by what was presented to us for our main course. While the sake and sushi are worth a visit, there are other, better places to visit in DC for a sushi-focused experience. If you work in the Farragut Square area or have an online coupon for the restaurant (we used a LivingSocial coupon when we visited), then Café Asia might be worth a visit. Otherwise, save yourself the trouble and lingering regret.