The Taste of DC

Location: Penn Quarter

Summary: If you were in DC this past weekend, there was little excuse not to have made this massive festival of music, beer, and oh so delicious food

If you knew nothing else about Taste of DC, the fact that this festival occupied five blocks of Pennsylvania Ave NW for three days was enough of a reason to shlep your way to Penn Quarter this past Columbus Day weekend. If you somehow missed out, and judging by the massive turnout you were in the minority, be sure to mark this event on your calendar for next year. We arrived early to avoid the lines, but still had to swim through crowds of hungry Washingtonians. Yet, the large amount of live music, plentiful beer selection, and quality food made it well worth sacrificing some elbow

While there were over 70 local eateries with their own tents and serving up various items, it was easy enough for us to pick out our favorites. Wicked Waffle’s Hoisin Duck Waffle Sandwich stood out immediately, but the simpler Grilled Tillamook Cheddar, Tomato, and Bacon was equally appetizing. Cedar’s BBQ Wild Boar sliders were a joy to behold along side a sample of their Sweet Pumpkin Mousse. Co Co Sala’s Rose Raspberry Panna Cotta Parfait and Artichoke Tart also rang out as clear winners among the ocean of culinary delights. If you haven’t been to any of these restaurants, we suggest you make the trip soon.

Although there was plenty to eat, the festival also had plenty of options for those looking for a good drink. Beyond the usual Bud Light and Stella options, Goose Island and Starr Hill were some of the better options available, Brunehaut’s gluten-free beer being one of the more regrettable tastings we purchased. Luckily, the prices for both samples and full cups of beer were a consistent and fair price. Something that did seem out of place at The Taste of DC was the lack of any beers from DC-based breweries.

One of the highlights of the day was the amateur version of the infamous Ben’s Chili Bowl Eating Competition, a challenge even sanctioned by the revered Major League Eating organization. Ten contestants stepped on stage, but only one could won the $350 cash prize. Afterward the hard-to-watch and grueling test, we asked the winner how he felt and he noted that it was a “hollow victory”, promptly exiting the stage with his trophy, check, and severely upset stomach. Also at the event was eating-contest legend Joey “Jaws” Chestnut, sixth-straight champion of Nathan’s Annual Hot Dog Eating Contest. When asked why he came to Taste of DC, he said that he knew he could win professional-round of the challenge, having set a world record at last year’s contest by eating two gallons of chili in six minutes, and that the people who attended these events had “a higher appreciation for eating contests and food itself.” As it turns out, Joey was dethroned the next day by fellow competitor Tim “Eater X” Janus, who set a new world record for eating over two gallons under six minutes.

Below is a slideshow of our photos from the event. There were plenty of tents, food, and beer so be prepared to scroll through a long list of pictures. If you have any questions about the food or pics, feel free to leave a comment on this post.

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Top Chef Cooking Class at Asia Nine

As soon as the finale of Bravo’s Top Chef Season 9 aired, we received an email notice from Asia Nine, a Penn Quarter restaurant that we’ve visited many times before for both dinner and happy hour. They were announcing an Asian fusion cooking class with none other than Chef Paul Qui, Executive Chef of Uchiko in Austin TX and the most recent contestant to receive the title “Top Chef”. Along with Paul was Chef Edward Lee, Executive Chef of 610 Magnolia in Louisville KY and fellow contestant on the show (as well as our personal favorite on the season). Asia Nine explained to us that they chose to host this particular event as Asian cuisine, fusion and authentic, have been a rising food trend this year and have been following the careers of both chefs for a while. Before the cooking class began, we were able to talk with chefs Paul Qui and Edward Lee for a few minutes.

We posed that the culture for many young chefs seems to be moving around to different restaurants every few years or less to gain as much experience under as many executive chefs as possible. Our question was whether it was better to pull inspiration from as many restaurants as possible or to find one restaurant that fit a young chef’s style and develop his or her craft there solely. Paul commented that it is important to get different experiences and learn in different kitchens to develop your own craft, but you need to stick with restaurants that fit your style and not just some big named restaurant. Ed added that some people do try to pad their resume by working in so many kitchens or studying under so many famous chefs, but the most critical thing is to find a place that suits you as a chef.

For our next question, we asked if there were any of their competitor’s dishes they saw in their season of Top Chef that they were impressed enough with to put on their own menu. Both of the chefs immediately said “No”, that while everything on the show was great, their menu “is a matter of pride.”

Asked if either of them were fans of the show prior to being chosen for the 9th Season, Ed said that he hadn’t really seen a full season before and usually jumped in half way through. Paul agreed that when the last eight contestants were left would he pick it up, the last seasons he watched were the end of Season 8 All Stars and Season 6 (Las Vegas). When asked if there was a previous season’s challenge he was glad not to have done, Paul couldn’t think of any, but voiced his loathing for the Culinary Olympics (gondola) challenge, however stipulating, “It is what it is. They can do whatever to me. It’s fine.”

When asked how a novice or average person could best start cooking Asian cuisine, Paul cautioned that “Asian cuisine” is such a broad term, styles differing from region to region, and it was best to first find a style that you enjoyed. Ed reminisced on one of the first books he bought as a kid by an old London chef named Kim Hon who wrote “these incredible Chinese cookbooks…still the best cookbooks for Chinese cuisine, which is kind of like the basis of modern Asian cuisine.” As it turns out, the series is unfortunately out of print.

Since on Top Chef a contestant is forced to compete in a wide range of styles and challenges, we wondered if their experiences in the season caused them to afterwards change their styles or menus of their restaurant. Ed said frankly, “I haven’t changed my cuisine because of what happened on Top Chef…Maybe our scope has broadened, but our process for making and producing is that same as it was, a slow and calculated process.” Elaborating on how their own kitchens work, both Paul and Ed added that there are plenty of voices in their kitchen, each sous-chef having a voice and hand in making a dish. “If you have more palates involved,” Paul said, “it’s like a think tank to create a dish.” “Otherwise, it becomes all about your ego,” Ed summarized.

For our final question, we asked if there were any restaurants in the DC area (besides Asia Nine, of course) that either of them preferred or were looking forward to visit while in town. Having grown up in northern Virginia, Paul said that his mom did a lot of gourmet cooking so he never really had a reason to visit that many restaurants in the area. He did add that he just went to Jose Andres’ America Eats Tavern and was a big fan the chef’s Mini Bar. Ed mentioned that he had eaten at Rasika the night before and imagined he would also visit Graffiato by Top Chef alum Michael Isabella.

As the chefs took to the instruction table in front of the then seated crowd of 110 eager onlookers, Ed announced that he would demonstrate how to prepare Quick Fried Squid and Bacon Salad with Ginger-Apple Zest. Cooking first the bacon, crisping the meat and rendering out most of the fat, he removed the bacon and quickly added the squid. Ed cautioned to only use fresh squid (the man-hole was used in this instance) and that many people screw up dishes with squid because they cook it for too long, producing a protein with the texture of a garden hose. The squid was sautéed quickly, the chef adding soy sauce, lemon, and pepper, and then instructing that the once the ingredients are add the squid is pretty much done already. The bacon and squid combination was added to a bowl of watercress before the addition of a spoonful of fresh Tahini (sesame paste) vinaigrette the chef had also prepared. Finally, Ed grated fresh ginger and a Ganny Smith apple on top of the dish, mentioning how this ginger/apple combination was great on almost anything, especially seafood. As we are served Asia Nine’s duplication of the chef’s dish, we had to agree that the apple & ginger gave the dish a fantastic cool, acidic taste. The smooth Tahiti sauce worked seamlessly with the squid, complimenting the seafood taste perfectly. The crumbled bacon gave savory taste of fat and a nice contrasting crunch to the soft texture of the squid.

Next up was Chef Paul’s Green Curry Mussels with Spiced Potato Chips and Basil. As he heated a pan and drops green curry and white miso pastes in vegetable oil, the smell of the curry blooming spread through the restaurant like a thick cloud, causing many in the audience to both cough and laugh. Paul added that some people have tried to have him cook with their family’s own curry and the scent usually much more potent. Garlic, shallots, ginger, and large cuts of lemongrass were added and sweated until they’re translucent. Cleaned mussels were then dropped in, coated in the curry mixture and steamed to open after the addition of some white wine. After they open, Paul mixed in some coconut milk and Kaffir lime leaves and simmered. Finally, mentioning that he liked to finish many of his dishes with some sort of fresh citrus, Paul squeezed fresh lime juice over the pan. The mussels and sauce was transferred to a bowl and garnished with potato chips and basil leaves. Although he prefers to use freshly made chips, Paul mentioned that Lays will substitute if you don’t have the time. The curry flavors we tasted in our dish went fantastically with the mussels, the coconut milk elevating what is usually just a broth to a sauce we eagerly scooped up with leftover mussel shells. After given a moment to soak in the same sauce, the basil leaves added a great herb twist.

While it was not demonstrated on stage, our third course was Asia Nine’s own Spiced braised short ribs, a great cut of beef oven cooked with a Panang curry mixture, lemongrass and stock. With only a small nudge from our knife and fork, the meat effortlessly separated from the bone. The short rib was superb, tender and juicy. While the curry sauce that surrounded the beef as it cooked tastes great in its own right, the heavy-handed flavors seemed to cover up the savoriness of the short rib instead of complimenting it. Although each of the dishes we enjoyed were paired with a wine, we have to applaud Asia Nine  for the California red blend chosen to match up with this final course, the Zinfandel, Syrah, and Merlot ensemble by far the best compliment to a dish in our meal.

As the other guest and we finished up our final course, Paul and Ed both returned to the demonstration table to field some questions from the audience. What has changed for them since the end of Top Chef? Less time in their kitchens and many more photo-ops. What was their worst/most difficult challenge? Setting up a restaurant in 5 hours for Restaurant Wars right after an all night BBQ challenge. Best hangover food? Fried chicken. Both of the chefs were in good spirits and took time for pictures afterwards with many of the fans in the crowd. They were great presenters and the dishes that Asia Nine’s kitchen reproduced were fantastic. The entire event was well executed and made us eager to see what the restaurant had planned for the rest of the year. Being in the presence of such great chefs encouraged us to expand our own cooking repertoire and pay closer attention to genuine culinary leaders like Ed and Paul beyond what we see on TV.

For a look at Asia Nine’s prepared chef profiles and the event’s recipes, check out Asia Nine Top Chef Cooking Class Info.

America Eats Tavern

Location: Penn Quarter

Price: $$$$

Rating: 4 out of 5

Summary: A delicious journey through America’s culinary history, an experience too good to last

Entering America Eats Tavern was like entering a culinary Newseum, the former Café Atlántico transformed into a scene of old Uncle Sam ads and war time ration posters. The whole point of José Andrés’ temporary restaurant is to mirror the exhibit “What’s cooking, Uncle Sam?” showing at the nearby National Archives. Like the museum’s display, the decor and menu are inspired by the evolution of American cuisine through waves of immigrants, depressions and wars. As our culture has developed, so has what we’ve eaten. Andrés’ restaurant celebrates that growth and development by gathering original recipes of classic American dishes and letting that history become an integral part of the experience. Every item on the menu has an explanation for how it developed or was established as the American icon it is today. Luckily, Andrés has take a poetical license with the quality of the otherwise ordinary ingredients and re-imagined with modern techniques.

When our waitress arrives, she gives the background of Jose Andrés’ vision and explains that most of the items on are of small-plate portions. With the variety and amount of history on the menu, it would be easy to leave America Eats with a bill well above what you had intended to pay going in. Pacing ourselves, we decide on only a few appetizers and entrees, ignoring that voice inside us reminding us that the restaurant is around on only a temporary basis.

Our first dish of the night was Clinton’s Gazpacho, a chilled tomato soup with minced tomatoes, onions, garlic and sprinkles of cilantro. It bears the name of the former Democratic president because of its introduction to the White House in 1998, 160 years after one of the earliest America recipes for the classic soup. Jose Andre’s own version of the dish was one of the best versions we have ever enjoyed, the light and refreshing soup combining effortlessly working in the spice with the delicate flavors of the included vegetables. With a healthy portion at a restaurant billed for smaller portions, this soup is a must try for as long as it will linger on America Eats’s fall menu.

The second item we decided to start with was Peanut Soup, something that we’ve never heard of at any other restaurant. The restaurant’s chefs take crushed peanuts, peanut praline and mace to recreate a dish close to the recipe of Rufus Estes, a man born as a slave and rising to become executive chef of a Chicago restaurant. When first tasting from our bowl, we first needed to accept that fact that this was indeed a soup made from peanuts and the overwhelming flavor of the dish was in fact peanuts. While we were not fans immediately of the dish, the light and silky peanut liquid grew on us, appreciating the almost sour qualities of the soup and bold approach the restaurant kitchen took with the dish. Our admiration was short lived, the heavy hints of salt and grainy textures of the minced peanuts made us wish that the portion wasn’t as large as we had been served. A sprinkled line of nutmeg and smear of slated peanut butter compelled us to only consume more of our iced water, having ingested more than our fair share of sodium in such a short time. A dish like peanut soup is something that any devoted fan of peanut butter should try, even if it is only once.

Our third dish was the Chesapeake Crabcakes with Pickled Watermelon Salad, lump cakes of combined blue crab and crab caviar with diced cubes of pickled watermelon by a very small amount of green leaf salad. As with every other dish, the history provided on the menu is half the fun of ordering, America Eats informing us that the first known recipe of this classic Chesapeake dish was published by the landmark Lord Baltimore Hotel in 1932. The lump blue crab was full of flavor, mixed with roe and a very small amount of veg. A scrape of the provided lemon butter sauce complimented the crab naturally and breathed even more life into the cake. However, when taking a bite, the crab cake loses its form, mushing apart in your mouth instead of melting away. While it may not be awarded first place in any Chesapeake competition, all of the traditional flavors were still there. The paired pickled watermelon salad was a fantastic addition to the plate, allowing the diner to cleanse their palates between bites. The sugar and water from each cube of the melon allowed us a new opportunity to enjoy a bite of the crab cake fresh, almost like it was our first bite of the meal and contemplate anew the flavors of the lump shellfish. We onlyed wish the crab cake itself has become better with each bite.

When looking for a second entree, we voiced to our waitress some hesitation ordering the Mutton with Oysters, an uncertainty that quickly disappeared when she informed us that only young lamb was used for the dish. When it arrived at the table, we knew we had made the right decision. The round cut of lamb was covered with a thick, brown stock gravy and paired with lightly browned cubes of potato and four breaded, fried oysters. The referenced 1845 recipe called for hanging the mutton for “some days” then salting it for two more days. What we were served instead was an incredibly tender piece of lamb, beautifully medium rare and heightened by the brown gravy. The potato cubes were lightly crisped on the outside and flaky on the inside, like small portions of baked potatoes. The breaded oysters can only be described “kentucky fried oysters”, an interesting take that still complimented the overall dish. Small dabs of a butter lemon sauce accompanied the breaded oysters, an image that reminded us of chicken fingers with honey mustard. Although we were told that most of the dishes served at America Eats were small portioned plates, the Mutton with Oysters put a lot of small, heavy items together and filled us quickly with a harmony of rich flavors.

Even though we were stuffed at the end of our entrees, the list of desserts and the historical descriptions made them irresistible. Pineapple Upside Down Cake has always been something dear to our heart and it was hard to resist ordering it when saw it on the menu. Once again, our waitress sensed the doubt in our eyes of handling such a traditionally heavy desert at the end of a meal and let us know that Jose Andrés’ version was much lighter than Rombauer’s 1925 Joy of Cook recipe. A warm pineapple sauce covered the cake that is bordered by additional cubes of the tropical fruit and glob of heavy whipped cream. Cutting into the dessert confirmed again the knowledge of our server, the moist cake light and fluffy barely holding any weight on our fork, but packed the usual amount of flavor of the typical version. The whipped cream was also remarkably light, its vanilla flavor pairing just as well as regular ice cream without the heavy mass. The bottom of the cake was slightly burnt, but that is often the case with Pineapple Upside Down Cake. This was a great interpretation of the classic and perfect, light ending to our meal.

It’s a shame that America Eats Tavern is only a temporary feature in Washington. With a menu that naturally evolves with the seasons and even American holidays, the only limit is what we can learn about ourselves through food. Yet, part of the excitement of the restaurant is its short lifespan. The rich history and breadth of thought placed in the menu is only rivaled by the skill of the kitchen and the quality of the plates served. Not everything we had was the best interpretation that each dish we enjoyed, but the food was really only half of the experience. There were a dishes lot we didn’t have time or capacity to enjoy at America Eats (namely the drink menu) and will likely be back for more soon.